Tioman Hotel

MERSING AND ISLES

With long sandy beaches, unpretentious resorts, crystal-clear waters and beautiful coral reefs, these South China Sea islands achieve the difficult feat of being both popular and unspoilt

Whoever panned Mersing knew how to make the most of her views. Seen from the coast-hugging roads of this bustling fishing and jump-off port, its postcard vistas of the offshore island silhouettes have brought is considerable fame. Despite lost-looking beach-seeker at the jetty, Mersing itself retains its peaceful small-town character.

You need a car to enjoy the winding evening drives to Kampung Sri Lalang en route to Endau north of town (turn right just after the bridge), and through Teluk Iskandar on the Sekakap road (turn right at Jalan Nong Yahya opposite the hospital). There are no beaches for swimming, but lookout points and hotel rooms overlooking the sea almost make up for it.

On public holidays, Mersing’s mini stadium sometimes plays host to the kuda kepang performance, a Javanese trance dance set to gamelan music and seldom seen outside Johor. Call the Johor Tourism Centre (JOTIC; open Mon-Fri 8am-4.30pm, Sat 8am-2.30pm; Tel: 07-2223591) details.

Because of its proximity to the area, Mersing is becoming a reference point for tours to the Endau-Rompin National Park. More accessible, and popular with locals are the recreational forests of Gunung Belumut and Gunung Lambak inland from Mersing along Route 50. The former rises up to 1,004 meters (3,290 ft) and it takes about four hours along dense jungle tracks to reach the peak. At the base are some small waterfalls, which are easily accessible by families. Gunung Lambak is an easier climb up to 510 meters (1,670 ft) using trails of footpaths and wooden bridges. It also has pretty cascades.

However, the south China Sea islands are the prime objective of the madding crowd. Over 60 volcanic isles in crystal-clear waters make up the Johor group, six of which have tourist facilities. The Mersing jetty is also an established springboard to the popular Pahang island of Tioman. These islands are protected by their marine park status and are home to prolific and diverse marine life, much of which is endemic to the area. Some of these islands are closed during the monsoon months of November-February.

Mythical Tioman
The largest of these islands, Pulau Tioman, is popularly believed to be named after the burung tiong or mynah bird, said at one time to proliferate the isle. In legend, it is said that the island was created when a dragon, which emerged from Lake Cini inland, froze into rock while waiting interminably for its mate.

There is a mention of Tioman before AD 1,000, in what was perhaps the first guide to Malaysia. Arab traders of the time noted in their “sailing directions” that Tioman offered good anchorage and freshwater springs. Much later, the island’s twin southern peaks at Mukut (called “Ass’s Ears”), were guide to Chinese traders between the 12th and 17th century, as evidenced by shards of Ming and other pottery found on the beaches and in nearby caves. Some of pottery now sits in a lovely little museum at Tioman’s Telek beach. Despite the treasures so far unearthed, it is widely believed that the waters around this crucial trading pitstop harbour many more sunken treasures in the forgotten holds of unknown wrecks.

Beach life
Tioman has been awarded daily-free status in an effort to attract Langkawi-like success, particularly with Singaporeans. At the moment, this translates mainly to the availability of cheap bear. Today, Tioman’s beaches continue to attract tropical isle fans, and divers and snorkellers who have come to revel in the marine park’s underwater life. The main beaches fringe the west coast, and all are lined with small chalets-type accommodation run by local Malay families. A sea-bus (speedboat) services the beaches between 8am-6pm.

The tiny town “centre” is at Telek, where you’ll also find the jetty, airstrip and shops. The long beach, shaded by casuarina and coconut trees, is fronted with chalets and restaurants. Further inland on the other side of the road are kampung style chalets. Despite the development, during the low season Telek feels pretty much like the kampung it always was. The island’s only road goes south from here to the island’s one large resort, the Berjaya Tioman Island Resort, which also has a golf course. North of Telek are the smaller beaches of Air Batang and Salang, which also have some interesting mangrove areas.

South of Telek are Nipah, a quiet chalet only stretch and Mukut, way down south at the base of the Twin Peaks, whose view of the wide expance of blue ocean is obscured by neither islands nor passing ships. Mukut also has alots of fresh springs and a couple of waterfalls, the precious water for which the ancient mariners must have been thankful. Two other stretches on the west coast are not so pretty : Genting which sits on rocks and Paya, which has no beach to speak of, although both have plenty of accommodation.

Juara is the sole beach on the east coast, a long white stretch with relatively little tree cover, great for sun-seekers but it has no coral reefs at all. This is more of a backpackers’s stretch, and can be reached from the west coast by sea-bus (2 hour journey) or by jungle trail which starts at the jetty.

The 2 to 3 hour jungle trek across the island emerges next to the airport at Telek, from which point you can take a sea bus back. The trail is paved in some stretched, steep in others and climbs into thick lush forest. Another trail goes from Telek to Batang Air and Salang.

Giant reefs
Tioman has large coral reefs on the west coast, most of which are close to shore. A feature of its marine life is its giant seafans, particularly at the top dive spot of Pulau Tulai or coral Island, whose shallow waters are also popular with snorkellers. Pulau Cebeh provides for some fine swim-throughs and there is cave diving just off the island while at the cliff-like rocks of Golden Reef are pretty, submerged coral garden. Pulau Rengis, opposite the resort, is an accessible site with an occasional slight drift. Pulau Jahat is a good site south of Mukut. It is common to spot hawksbill turtles in the waters too, as well as groups of spiny loinfish. Walk-ins and packages are available at the seven dive shops on the west coast beaches, as is full equipment rental. Instruction is offered too, and technical diving is gaining impetus here.

The 55km (35 miles) to Tioman can be covered in an hour by scheduled ferry from Mersing (try to get there in the morning), or Tanjung Gemok near Kuala Rompin in Pahang. Boats service Genting, Telek, ABC and Salang. All boats back to mainland depart Tioman at 7.30am. a high speed ferry also services singapore. An even quicker way to get to Tioman - with some spectacular scenery thrown in - is on board Berjaya Air ( Tel : 03-21452828) from Kuala Lumpur.

Islands cluster
Johor’s islands south of Tioman are also covered in jungle and have some good reefs; the islands are particularly popular with Singaporeans. All tour agencies offer the same 3 day/ 2 night package regardless of destination island: this comprises transfers, accommodation, tours (including snorkeling), and all meals including a barbeque. An all day island hopping trip in a 10-12 seater boat can also be arranged. This covers a few of the nearest islands and hire of snorkeling gear, but you usually have to bring your own lunch.

The closest isle to the mainland, and the largest is Pulau Besar, one hour away. Pulau Besar is one of a trio of islands, including Pulau Tengah (which was once used as a refugee camp for Vietnamese boat people) and Pulau Hujung which are popular with day trippers. However, Pulau Besar is the only one with accommodation, which comprises mainly basic chalet operations and one two star hotel. There is also a dive facilities here trails from the sandy beaches lead star hotel. There is also a dive facilities here. Trails from the sandy beaches lead to small plantations and wooden kampung.

About the same distance from Mersing is the tiny Pulau Jawa. The island was once one of the top destination, but it has declined in popularity some what in recent years. Rawa has only one resort, in which Johor royalty have a share and it has dive facilities but no divemaster. The marine life is nothing to shout about, but most visitors don’t mind. They go there simply to enjoy its lovely beach - also on the island-hopping tour list - and do nothing. For the energetic, there is windsurfing, snorkelling, canoeing and fishing available.

Pulau Tinggi, a 40 minutes trip from the mainland has a towering jungled peak, hence its name (tinggi mean “high”). Like Tioman’s mountains, this 650 meter giant was used as a navigational marker by Chinese mariners, and is mentioned in their literature as the “general’s hat island”. There is lots of accommodation here, mainly budget chalets. Two islets nearby have some marine reefs.

Much further away are Pulau Aur (3-4 hours) and Pulau Pemanggil (4-5 hours). Transport here is by chartered boat only, and is arranged through the respective resorts. Despite the distance, the islands are very popular, particularly for fishing and diving. Accommodation is plentiful but basic, and takes the form of longhouses and dormitories with common bathrooms. The best beach at aur is actually on a neighbouring islet, Pulau Dayang, which has a dramatic granite rock face looming over its sole resort. Sea fans characterise its reefs and experienced divers can explore a WorldWar II Japanese wreck another 1 and half hour east. The main island is hilly and good for trekking. Secluded Pemanggil has turquoise laggons and offshore pools and great shallow waters for snorkeling.

Deep south
johor’s southern most pair of holiday islands is accessible from Tanjung Leman, a staging point on reclaimed land about 2 hours south of Mersing. The ferry take half an hour to reach Pulau Sibu Besar and Pulau Sibu Tengah; speedboats do the journey in 20 minutes, but it’s a bumpier trip.

Pulau Sibu Besar has a longer history of tourism, and therefore has more accommodation, although the bulk of it is basic. A large island, it also offers some good walks that weave through its small, forested hills. In the the kampung, modern solar panels stand out among the traditional wooden houses - they are part of a government-subsidised power programme.

The smaller Pulau Sibu Tengah is being promoted as a one island, one resort destination, the same pitch as Rawa. A huge three-star resort sprawls over 8 hectares (20arces) of beachfront, offering a gamut of activities including snorkelling and DIY batik.

One option is to do an all day island hopping tour covering these islands from Tanjung Leman. Perched near the islands are also some kelong, traditional fishing huts on stilts sunk deep into the ocean floor, which are open to visitors. Popular among anglers, you’d need to bring sleeping bags; food can be arranged. Enquire at the Tanjung Leman staging point.